Replacement Wireless Antennas?

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

Greetings Everyone,

I am trying to get replacement antennas for me motherboard. I am trying to diagnose wireless connectivity issues, I lost my stock antennas in my last move. My motherboard is this MSI Mini ITX. I went on newegg last month and by picture thought this was a perfect match. Unfortunately it looked like it was small in reality they look like router sized antennas. This means it didn't fit in the spot and so my signal is still poor and dropping alot of packets.


Secondarily:
How does one test the health of a wireless router? AKA: if you think your ram is going bad you hit it with a math test. If you think your hard drive is going bad you download the utility from its manufacturer to test read write speeds and errors. If you think your bottleneck is in a router that isn't the latest IEEE how do you test it?

My printer keeps dropping from it and so i'm not sure if its the printer or this packet issue is related to the router ?

[ZED]

You could check the WiFi network speed by right clicking on the WiFi icon on your Taskbar and then going to Netwrok and Sharing Center where you can click on your WiFi SSID and check the status and see if network speed is sufficient, as well as signal strength. You may also use Diagnose tool.
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Next thing you could do is to login to your Router and check DOCSIS WAN for Signal Strength:

Downstream Power (-15dbmV to +15dbmV) - measure of the signal level received by the cable modem
Most modems are rated from -15dB to +15dB, however it's best to have it between +8dB and -8dB. Anything less or more than that and you may have quality issues. You can remove splitters on the line if you need to raise and clean up your signal level a bit. You can also use a tap (directional coupler) to get a cleaner signal to the cable modem instead of a splitter.

Upstream Power / Modulation(37dbmV to 55dbmV) - the strength of signal transmitted by the cable modem
Generally a lower this number is better. Above 55dB will most likely cause problems, over 57dB and you probably won't be able to connect. Ideally between 42 and 50dB. Lower than 40 may start introducing some packet loss (especially if you have much noise on the line). If you hit 58 the modem will likely drop the connection and resync.

Signal/Noise Ratio (SNR , >30dB) - measure of how clear the signal is
SNR is best over 30, (the higher the better, might work well with as low as 25 at times). Anything less than 25 will cause dropped connections, packet loss, slow transfers, etc. This is true for both the "Downstream SNR" and the "Upstream SNR", which may be different values. Typically, cable modems show the Downstream SNR, the Upsteram SNR can only be calculated at the remote end of the coax (usually at the node). Just remember that higher SNR means cleaner signal. A value well over 40 may mean you have too much power.
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Make sure that your router is not in proximity of 1 meter with any other device. Any electronic device may cause signal interference and or fluctuate signal strength.

P.S. More detailed info about your setup might be more helpful to resolve this issue.

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

You could check the WiFi network speed by right clicking on the WiFi icon on your Taskbar and then going to Netwrok and Sharing Center where you can click on your WiFi SSID and check the status and see if network speed is sufficient, as well as signal strength. You may also use Diagnose tool.
================================================== ===========
Next thing you could do is to login to your Router and check DOCSIS WAN for Signal Strength:

Downstream Power (-15dbmV to +15dbmV) - measure of the signal level received by the cable modem
Most modems are rated from -15dB to +15dB, however it's best to have it between +8dB and -8dB. Anything less or more than that and you may have quality issues. You can remove splitters on the line if you need to raise and clean up your signal level a bit. You can also use a tap (directional coupler) to get a cleaner signal to the cable modem instead of a splitter.

Upstream Power / Modulation(37dbmV to 55dbmV) - the strength of signal transmitted by the cable modem
Generally a lower this number is better. Above 55dB will most likely cause problems, over 57dB and you probably won't be able to connect. Ideally between 42 and 50dB. Lower than 40 may start introducing some packet loss (especially if you have much noise on the line). If you hit 58 the modem will likely drop the connection and resync.

Signal/Noise Ratio (SNR , >30dB) - measure of how clear the signal is
SNR is best over 30, (the higher the better, might work well with as low as 25 at times). Anything less than 25 will cause dropped connections, packet loss, slow transfers, etc. This is true for both the "Downstream SNR" and the "Upstream SNR", which may be different values. Typically, cable modems show the Downstream SNR, the Upsteram SNR can only be calculated at the remote end of the coax (usually at the node). Just remember that higher SNR means cleaner signal. A value well over 40 may mean you have too much power.
================================================== =================================

Make sure that your router is not in proximity of 1 meter with any other device. Any electronic device may cause signal interference and or fluctuate signal strength.

P.S. More detailed info about your setup might be more helpful to resolve this issue.

Thanks for the quick reply m8 about the wireless issue portion.

Basics of Setup:
Cable Modem (haven't tried to see if I can login as its their device and I pay less to be self managed)
- Believe most of your suggestions are about the modem itself
ASUS N16 Router - Flashed with custom firmware
Wirelessly connected
- Desktop as indicated (poor connection) from the back room
- Iphones x 2, Ipads x 2
- Cannon TS9020 (intermittent connection issues)
- Macbook Pro (Have constant connection issues, have to renew lease almost every time I wake from sleep)
Connected via Wire (CAT 5)
- Steam Link
- Apple TV
- Philips Lights
- Home Security
- Modem

[ZED]

Thanks for the quick reply m8 about the wireless issue portion.

Basics of Setup:
Cable Modem (haven't tried to see if I can login as its their device and I pay less to be self managed)
- Believe most of your suggestions are about the modem itself
ASUS N16 Router - Flashed with custom firmware
Wirelessly connected
- Desktop as indicated (poor connection) from the back room
- Iphones x 2, Ipads x 2
- Cannon TS9020 (intermittent connection issues)
- Macbook Pro (Have constant connection issues, have to renew lease almost every time I wake from sleep)
Connected via Wire (CAT 5)
- Steam Link
- Apple TV
- Philips Lights
- Home Security
- Modem

So you have not control over Modem? Do you have physical access to modem?

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

So you have not control over Modem? Do you have physical access to modem?

Yea physical access to it is no problem, I havn't tried the good ole admin admin. Don't want them to add the fee back on for them saying they admin my wireless for me haha.

[ooDOTToo]

If I may step in for a second. The Cannon printer goes into a hibernation that you cannot turn off. Always a pain

[ZED]

Yea physical access to it is no problem, I havn't tried the good ole admin admin. Don't want them to add the fee back on for them saying they admin my wireless for me haha.

So, according to the further information you provided it seems that you get Poor WiFi signal and the fact you get an IP address Lease message is the major cause for your printer to disconnect. What you need to do is to login to your Router and go to DHCP settings and assign IP address to every MAC address of every device. This will prevent your devices from changing IP address and drop connection after they are shut down or go into hibernation status.

Also, what I understood from your Network topology is that you have a Modem provided by your ISP and you have a custom Router connected to that modem, correct? Is your Router connected to modem via WiFi or cable? How far is your router from other devices? Perhaps you may consider getting Power Line adapters for your Desktop instead of WiFi. Not only that will improve signal but also will be better than WiFi in general - it's pretty much almost as if you would be connected via cable. https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-PowerL...erline+adapter

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

If I may step in for a second. The Cannon printer goes into a hibernation that you cannot turn off. Always a pain

Aye it does indeed.

So, according to the further information you provided it seems that you get Poor WiFi signal and the fact you get an IP address Lease message is the major cause for your printer to disconnect. What you need to do is to login to your Router and go to DHCP settings and assign IP address to every MAC address of every device. This will prevent your devices from changing IP address and drop connection after they are shut down or go into hibernation status.

Also, what I understood from your Network topology is that you have a Modem provided by your ISP and you have a custom Router connected to that modem, correct? Is your Router connected to modem via WiFi or cable? How far is your router from other devices? Perhaps you may consider getting Power Line adapters for your Desktop instead of WiFi. Not only that will improve signal but also will be better than WiFi in general - it's pretty much almost as if you would be connected via cable. https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-PowerL...erline+adapter

Hmm no i've never seen a thing like that, i've usually used a wifi extender but that wasn't the plan this time around. So it is similar to the old style of using the power to send your phone signal around the home vs a hard wire port in every room?

[effectiv]

Sounds like there’s something wrong with your routers DHCP settings. Is it set to auto? And has anything changed recently or have you had these problems for a while?

As for testing, run a bufferbloat test on dsl report. Anything above a B or C should be ok as far as connection health goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZED]

Aye it does indeed.

So it is similar to the old style of using the power to send your phone signal around the home vs a hard wire port in every room?

Something like that. It works better than WiFi and is almost as good as hard wired connection directly to Router/Modem.

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

Sounds like there’s something wrong with your routers DHCP settings. Is it set to auto? And has anything changed recently or have you had these problems for a while?

As for testing, run a bufferbloat test on dsl report. Anything above a B or C should be ok as far as connection health goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Printer is new, I haven't used the router since my Dubai assignment in 2014 tbh, its been in storage. I have been hard wired into the wall in a dorm the last semester. I reset her and put the latest tomatoe USB on her when I took her out of the box. I didn't take it off of AUTO DHCP, I did assign a static one to my printer to try and solve the sleeping issue.

The weirdest thing is router can 50:50 ping the ip, the devices attempting to get there get no packets back when they do a ping or tracert to see where the packet is lost.

https://www.bufferbloat.net/projects...r_Bufferbloat/ - Is this what you meant by testing it effective?

Something like that. It works better than WiFi and is almost as good as hard wired connection directly to Router/Modem.

I am definitely going to try that, as I am generally not able to run hard lines through government furnished apartments when on assignment.

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

Any ideas on where to get those small antennas that came with the motherboard that actually work? NVM I guess your method removes that need now.

[effectiv]

https://www.bufferbloat.net/projects...r_Bufferbloat/ - Is this what you meant by testing it effective?

Yep! That’s it. There should be a link to run a test, and it will score your devices that are capable of running it (phone, tablet, pc, etc) on a scale A-F. Its much more in depth than a standard ping test.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

Yep! That’s it. There should be a link to run a test, and it will score your devices that are capable of running it (phone, tablet, pc, etc) on a scale A-F. Its much more in depth than a standard ping test.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AH I see it was just the normal speed test, its definitely different in the back room via wireless then via the hardlined apple tv for example.

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

- back offce
- front laptop

can't take a photo of the apple tv but it has a really nice one in the day time, haven't checked it at night.

[effectiv]

AH I see it was just the normal speed test, its definitely different in the back room via wireless then via the hardlined apple tv for example.

It’s definitely different. My buddy has 100mbit and he scored a D before tweaking his router now it’s a B+.

It’s helped his in game registration (bullet/hit reg) a lot and stopped random lag spikes because he’d tweak a few things and test again to see if it improved or decreased.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

It’s definitely different. My buddy has 100mbit and he scored a D before tweaking his router now it’s a B+.

It’s helped his in game registration (bullet/hit reg) a lot and stopped random lag spikes because he’d tweak a few things and test again to see if it improved or decreased.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Weird, the only thing I saw on the page I linked was the speed tests. There was a program but it was only a unix family product. Maybe there's some reading elsewhere on the site to help with this.


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[Darkn3ss F4lls]

- desktop in the back

[Darkn3ss F4lls]

- front laptop

[ooDOTToo]

I have a similar problem with running a cable to where my office is located in my house. I went with the Google WiFi mesh system. It allows me to plug directly into a lan port on one of the WiFi points and it improved my speed dramatically. Additionally, it is not a big deal to take with you when you move again.